by Jane Suzanne King Syrah, also known as Shiraz and Sirah, is an extraordinary red wine grape believed to have originated in the Middle East but now established as the famous wine grape of France’s Rhone Valley. One of many Rhone varietals, Syrah is the principal grape of the Cote-Rotie, Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage regions and is also used to add depth to wines from the Chateauneuf du Pape and Cotes du Rhone regions. In the 17th century, Syrah was brought to South Africa and Australia from France and re-named Shiraz. Syrah grapes are medium to large and deep purple in color and are con- sidered “noble” grapes, meaning they are a classic red grape up there in quality with Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot. Syrah is mysterious and elegant, with huge purple color, complex tannins, tar, spice and pepper. As it ages, it becomes increasingly fruitier, often gaining strawberry, cassis, blackberry and plum flavors. The spices also gain depth, making the wine leathery with hints of vanilla and currant. Because of its deep character, it is often said to have a soul. Syrah was once thought to be the same as Petite Syrah, but enologists have proven it a different varietal altogether. Petite Syrah has now been genetically proven to be the name for several different grape varietals, including Durif and Peloursin but not including Syrah. Syrah was first planted in California in the late 1800s, perhaps around 1875. It did not catch on until the 1980s, when the “Rhone Rangers” began experimenting with the grapes of the Rhone region because of the similarity of the two climates and soils. While as many as 20 wine growers in California were making Rhone wines at this time, Syrah’s popularity did not begin to grow until the mid-199Os. Today, winemakers like Bob Lindquist of Qupe, Craig Williams of Joseph Phelps, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon and Bill Crawford of McDowell Valley Vineyards are showing that Syrah can be hugely popular in California. As its popularity continues to grow, the rumor-mill is often heard saying Syrah is the next Merlot for California. The Sierra Foothills are one of the original locations of Syrah vines in California and, because winemakers such as John MacCready of Sierra Vista Winery in El Dorado County, Bill Easton of Domaine de la Terre Rouge, Buck Cobb of Karly Wines and Leon Sobon of Sobon Estate in Amador County have been growing Syrah for approximately 20 years now, the results are starting to pay off. In the February Rhone issue of the “Wine Spectator,” Syrahs from the Sierra Foothills were featured twice as the wines to buy. In Amador County alone, Syrah is being bottled at Amador Foothill Winery, Jeff Runquist Wines, Argonaut Winery, Dobra Zemlja, Domaine de la Terre Rouge, Frenz, Karly, Montevina, Nine Gables, Renwood, Serenidad, Sobon Estates, Villa Toscano and Young’s wineries, and being grown by many other growers. Many say
the Sierra Foothills is becoming the California region for Syrah just
as Napa is the California region for Cabernet Sauvignon. There’s
the rub! The Santa Barbara and Paso Robles appellation wineries are making
some incredibly rich and delicious Syrahs as well, and are vying for the
market. Syrah will become ever more popular as consumers become more knowledgeable about wines and able to differentiate the flavors and balance of a complex red. Prices for Syrah range from $10 to $50. A good Syrah is extremely hearty and oak-aged for more than 18 months; it can last up to 10 years in the bottle. For best results, decant and let it breathe for an hour or so before drinking. Serve at room temperature. |
Six Sierra Foothills Syrahs superb for cellaring Jeff Runquist Wines
Renwood Winery Young’s Vineyard
Cedarville Syrah Domaine de la Terre
Rouge Stefan Daniels Karly Wines
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