Bocconato represents the summation of experiences of its owners, Executive Chef Giovanni Gaudio, and his wife Sheri. Giovanni grew up in an Italian family that revered the cuisine, recipes, and culture brought over from the Toscana and Piemonte regions of Italy. In Italy, food, wine, and cheeses are intensely linked to culture, family, history, the land, and influence of historic trade routes. In rural Italy each region has developed its own food specialties that are considered a big part of its identity.
We were seated and introduced to our server Peter Steiner who prepared to take our order. We told him, “Go ahead and surprise us!” The first course at an Italian meal is antipasto, which literally means “before the pasta” and is the meal starter. There are about 12 choices ($8-$12) that encompass a variety of interesting vegetables, cheeses, meats, and fruits. We were brought a plate with several examples of Sformati, a souffle cooked in a form. The three we tried were zucchini, red pepper, and fennel made from local organic vegetables. Another unusual dish we sampled for the first time was Watermelon Radish from nearby Safan Ranch. They grow to about the size of a small apple and have a green rind and rosy interior. It was sliced very thin and topped with mango, bleu cheese and walnuts. Avocado E Granchio Timbale is an avocado and crab dish finished with a hint of pickled ginger, wasabi, and chili oils. Farinata is a thin crisp crepe made from chickpeas (aka ceci or garbanzo beans) and baked with caramelized onion and sage.

Spiedini D’Anatra is roasted duck breast, pancetta, and orange slices finished with 30-year-old Balsamico on a just-picked rosemary stem used as a skewer. The common theme with antipasto is to have a fresh and tasty delicacy before the meal. These time-honored recipes are sophisticated yet simple food that is not only gratifying but also very nutritious. We were especially impressed with the presentation and freshness of the antipasti. Our server Peter recommended we pair our appetizers with Lagaria Pinot Grigio 2006 for its well-balanced medium body that goes well with a variety of flavors.

Peter and our other server Michael Warren are as experienced as anyone we’ve seen in the area. Peter served as a sommelier in Carmel for 16 years and has a wide variety of experience in the dining field. Michael worked in a Sushi restaurant in New York for many years. Both men are excited about working in a stimulating environment and serving such unique and exclusive cuisine.

Let’s have some pasta! Chef Giovanni and his son Orion hand-make their own fresh pasta--what a difference. Papardelle is a hand rolled pasta flavored lightly with Gorgonzola and cracked peppers that has a remarkable taste. Peter recommended Miraflores 2005 Syrah (El Dorado) and Jermann “Red Angel on the Moonlight” Rosso (Italy) to complement our entrées. They were both outstanding.

Executive Chef Giovanni Gaudio and his wife Sheri are people who bring many diverse experiences to Bocconato. Giovanni sledded in the Alaskan Wilderness for several years living off the land and meeting the challenge just to stay alive in the harsh environment. Heis a retired practitioner of Oriental Medicine and Acupuncture. Sheri holds a PhD and shares the passion for culture, travel, and food. Many of the recipes were gathered during travel throughout northern and central Italy. Typically they would arrive at an obscure village, start talking about food and culture, and find themselves working and learning with the local cooks. They also work with the historical society of Italy in their effort to preserve traditional recipes. In Giovanni’s travels he has studied with chefs and winemakers throughout the world and brought back with him the best of these experiences for you to enjoy.

The staff at Bocconato Trattoria is very knowledgeable about food, wine, and Italian culture and are happy to answer your questions. It is their mission to remind their guests that sharing food and wine is a daily celebration.

As is the custom in Europe the meal is served item by item so plan to make your visit an event that is savored slowly. Chef Giovanni makes a fresh hand-made pasta of the day, drawing from his 200 or so recipes. The selection during our visit was Lasagna, which is made with long homemade noodles layered with Ricotta, Scamorza, Parmigiano, and Reggiano cheeses. It was divine!

Coletto Milanese ($15) features Niman Ranch pork pounded thin, lightly battered, and fried. This dish was fried so skillfully you would swear it was baked. It was so tender and a squeeze of lemon really brought out its fabulous flavor. We highly recommend this dish. Another melt in your mouth delicacy is Brassato; English cut Short Ribs slow-roasted many hours in wine.

A Trattoria is a relatively informal Italian bistro style-dining establishment as opposed to the more formal Ristorante. The décor of Bocconato Trattoria is rather avant-garde with a mixture of colors and designs that one would expect to encounter in Italy. There are a number of interesting paintings and pictures adorning the walls to amplify the experience. There is seating outside on the patio for those who wish to experience the quaint surroundings
of the town of Fair Play.

Time now for La Dolce-the sweets. Amadei Cioccolato Tortino is a chocolate cake with a lava center baked when you order. Made from the finest Italian chocolate by world-class chocolate purveyor Amadei, it is a must-order for the chocolate aficionado.

Gelato is house-made daily—we sampled vanilla and chocolate chip and just loved it. Chef Giovanni’s Tiramisu recipe is another must try and is one of his specialties. Bocconato Trattoria isn’t just dinner; it’s an indisputably Italian cultural experience. It is a visit to Northern Italy and an exploration of its cuisine, wine, cheese, and culture. The service staff is very knowledgeable and didn’t miss a step all evening. We very much enjoyed being immersed in another culture and partaking of their cuisine. Throughout the evening we were treated like we were part of the family. Buon Appetito!

Bocconato Trattoria is located at 7915 Fair Play Road, Fair Play, CA. The hours are Monday and Thursday 5 pm – 9 pm and Friday – Sunday 12 pm – 9 pm. Reservations can be made by calling
(530) 620-2492. Their website is www.bocconato.com.