Clarksburg is probably not the first region that comes to mind with considering fine California white wine. But this unique area of levee-lined waterways, steel drawbridges and lush farmland just south of Sacramento is home to some of California’s best white wines from one of the world’s most versatile white grapes – Chenin Blanc.

The warm summer days and nights influenced by cooling Delta breezes make Clarksburg the perfect setting for growing Chenin Blanc. The vines tend to bud early and fruit is inclined to ripen late in the season. Naturally high in acid, Chenin Blanc does well in the warm Central Valley climate where the growing season is long and dry. Chenin Blanc is a vigorous vine producing medium size clusters of green to straw-colored tough-skinned, medium size berries. While the grape is resistant to many vineyard maladies, it is susceptible to bunch rot and sunburn.

The Loire Valley region of France is home to Chenin Blanc. There, it is used to make white wines in a wide variety of styles from bone dry to semi-sweet Vouvray style to exceptionally sweet, botrytized dessert sippers. Some delightful sparkling wines are made from dry Chenin Blanc in the Loire Valley. In South Africa, Chenin Blanc is called Steen and is the most widely planted grape variety, accounting for about 30 percent of all the country’s vines.

Chenin Blanc probably came to California in the late 1800s but did not catch on as a wine grape until well after Prohibition. Following World War II, several central and northern California growers planted Chenin Blanc from vines labeled White Pinot or Pinot de la Loire obtained from U. C. Davis. In the late 1950s Chenin Blanc was recognized as a good grape for making popular semi-sweet wines. It became the top selling brand for Napa’s Charles Krug Winery in the mid 1970s.

The reality that Chenin Blanc could regularly produce five to eight tons per acre, thrive in a warm, dry climate, and adapt to a range of soil types made it the perfect white grape for the high production of the Central Valley.

By 1979 Chenin Blanc was the most planted white grape in California and remained so until 1988 when overtaken by Chardonnay. It is currently the third most cultivated white wine grape variety in the state. Chenin Blanc’s high acidity and pleasant, fruity flavors also made it the preferred grape for white California jug wines and an ideal acid enhancer for flabby high sugar/high alcohol blends.

Not all California Chenin Blanc goes into bulk wine however. A smattering of dedicated producers across the state keep Chenin Blanc on their wine lists because of its crisp acidity and flavor complexity. Even dry, Chenin Blanc can have a subtle sweetness with complex flavors of honey, dried figs, peaches and melon.

While farming families in the Delta have traditionally included grapes in their mix of agricultural crops, the wine “boom” of the late 1990s encouraged some to take a second look at Chenin Blanc. Today, the Clarksburg AVA (American Vintners Association) is building a reputation for high quality; premium wines from – of all things – the old workhorse, Chenin Blanc.

Carvalho 2004 Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg
Stunning example of premium Clarksburg Chenin Blanc. Crisp acidity with refreshing nuances of melon and peach. round satisfying finish of honey, apricot and fig.

Charles Spinetta Chenin Blanc, Amador County
Fron Spinetta's Sierra foothills estate vineyard, this low alcohol (7.7%) refresher features bright flavors of grapefruit, pineapple and tree ripened peach. Dubbed "Fun and Yummy White" by local radio personality Bill Byrd, a wine prefect for Asian cuisine.

Ehrhardt Estates Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg
Pale gold in color, light bodied and well balanced with full fruit flavor. Slightly sweet with a residual sugar of .8 g/l the wine is 92% Chenin blance and 8% Chardonnay from estate vienyards. Delicate aromas with lingering flavors of pear, melon and a touch of honey.

Heringer Estates Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg
Medium weight, blanced and elegant with a brilliant laight straw color. Lively flavors of citrus and peach with a touch of mineral character.

Omega Cellars 2004 Chenin Blanc (Lodi)
Grapes from Laguens and Grand Island Vineyards in the Clarksburg AVA produce a bold peach and grapefruit bouquet with superb balance and a lingering finishe of citrus, apple and pear.

Story Winery 2004 Cheini Blanc, Amador County
Estate grown grapes from the foothills of the Sierra produce a spicy light wine with bright acidity and delicate flovors of honeysuckle, peach and light citrus.