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When I think of Alicante Bouschet, I’m drawn to that old box of books in the attic that contains my high school yearbook. I dig it out of the box, dust it off, and flip through the time-worn pages until I find my picture as a strong, virile young lad prepared to contribute to a better world. Now, some half-century later, my work is done, I made my contribution, and I’m ready to go back in the box. But wait. While I may be close to retirement, I still have value and can make a contribution even though I am not as popular a workhorse I once was. There you have the story of Alicante Bouschet in America. Born in France in 1865 as the offspring of the marriage between Petit Bouschet and Grenache, Alicante was groomed to add color and body to southern French vin ordinare. But the young hybrid grape had a unique characteristic of great value. It is one of few red viniferous grapes to produce red-pigmented free-run juice or what the French call teinturier or dyer. As a result, Alicante Bouschet was a much appreciated grape that could be discreetly blended with the nobler wine grapes of France to add color, depth, and structure. In all likelihood, Charles McIver imported the first Alicante Bouschet to his Mission San Jose nursery in the early 1880s. The grape variety was widely planted in the 1890s and by 1919 Alicante was the most widely planted red-juice grape in California. During Prohibition, Alicante Bouschet attained star status with home winemakers in the east because of its heavy skin, high sugar content, and deep color. The anti-oxidant properties of Alicante’s thick skin made it prefect for the long cross-country trek by train. Bootleggers loved the grape as well since Alicante’s intense color could stand extension with water and sugar to more that double the wine gallonage per ton of grapes. By 1932 California had 39,000 acres of high-yielding, easy-harvesting, cash flow-producing Alicante Bouschet vines. |
But alas, times changed and the once heralded Alicante Bouschet lost favor with growers and producers after Repeal. California refocused the wine industry on the production of quality varietal wines in the 1970s and the opulent virtues of Alicante were no longer an advantage. Like the old workhorse put out to pasture to wile away his time, Alicate Bouschet’s status steadily dropped through the end of the 20th Century. There are now about 1,000 acres state-wide. Today however, there are some encouraging signs of life in the workhorse. While 90% of the Alicante vineyards are in the central valley, a number of California producers have taken an interest in reviving the grape to make premium varietal and blended wines using Alicante Bouschet. A very productive grape that can yield up to 12 tons per acre, Alicante loves the heat although its acidity can be lower than desirable at high sugar levels. Its tough skin resists powdery mildew but is rich in tannin and color. On the verge of retirement, Alicante Bouschet has been called back into service by California winemakers with imagination and vision. The old workhorse has been recognized for its unique value and it’s once again in a position to contribute to the glory of fine California wine. |
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Chouinard Alicante Bouschet
- Lodi
Cooper vineyards Alicante Bouschet 2005 - Amador County
French Hill Alicante Bouschet 2005 - Calaveras County
Wyneland Estates Alicante Bouschet - Lodi
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