Riesling is to wine like SUV is to cars. You know it’s a white wine but like the SUV, there are many different makes, models, styles, sizes and colors. There are foreign and domestic Rieslings; dry, semi-sweet, and dessert sweet Rieslings; and there are Grey, White and Emerald Rieslings. It is all very confusing so let’s see if we can sort it out.

There are those who believe that Riesling is the best of all the white wine grapes because of cellar longevity, varietal identity, and the ability reflects individual terrior. Riesling is native to the Rhein and Mosel river valleys of Germany. It has been cultivated on the steep valley slopes since the early 1400s. The first “Rhine Wine” was documented in 1435 and the modern word Riesling was coined in 1552.

Authentic Riesling is known primarily by its two dominant aliases, Johannisberg Riesling and White Riesling. While these two wines are made from true Riesling, imposters including Grey Riesling (Chauce Gris), Walschriesling (Italian Riesling), and Missouri Riesling are entirely different grapes and wines. The Sylvaner (Franken) grape is a distant cousin of true Riesling while Emerald Riesling and Muller-Thurgau are just a couple of the more than 60 Riesling hybrids and clones available to wine growers.

Rieslings produced in California today are either Johannisberg and/or White Riesling. A 1991 BATF (now TTB) ruling specified that the name Riesling could not be used for any grape that was not a true Riesling. Furthermore, as of January 1, 1999, the word “Johannisberg” could not be used on domestic wine labels. True Riesling can only be labeled Riesling or White Riesling.

Historically grown in Germany, the Alsace region of France, Austria, and northern Italy, Riesling flourishes in the cooler climate regions of Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Chile, South Africa and the United States. German immigrants brought the first Johannisberg Riesling vines to the Finger Lakes regions of New York in the early 1850s. By 1857, Riesling was being planted in California by such German wine pioneers as Charles Krug, Jacob Schram, and Frederick Beringer.

Riesling grapes require careful handling at harvest to avoid crushing or bruising the skin that allows tannin in the juice and throws off the delicate balance of the wine. Many California winemakers will pick Riesling at night or in the chilly early morning. The juice is pressed off the skins and fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks at 50-60 degrees. Rarely do Rieslings see any oak and they do not go through malolactic fermentation. This treatment preserves the tart, acidic “thirst-quenching” character of Riesling. Prior to bottling, winemakers will cold stabilize Riesling to prevent crystallization of tartaric acid (“white diamonds”) in the bottle.

California Rieslings tend to be a bit dryer, a bit fuller, and have more of a melon flavor than their German counterparts. They usually have a powerful and distinctive floral and apple, peach, and pear aroma that mixes with mineral elements specific to their source or terrior. Wines with soft tree-fruit, honey, and melon flavors with hints of stone can sometimes acquire an alluring petrol or kerosene note typical of balanced, ageable Riesling.

The sweetest extreme of Riesling produces some of the world’s best dessert wines. Late harvest Rieslings are the result of letting the grapes hang on the vines well past normal harvest time. If the over-ripe grapes are infected by the fungus Botrytis cinerea (“noble rot”) evaporation results in water loss that concentrates sugars, acids and flavors while developing complexity. The result is a highly esteemed nectar-like sweet dessert wine. Ice wine is made from Riesling grapes that are left to freeze on the vine. Removing the water as ice results in a wine with much of the same concentrated sweetness and flavor of late harvest Rieslings.

Which style SUV or Riesling do you like? Hopefully, your choice is less confusing.

Prior to prohibition, Riesling was the dominant white grape variety in California. Riesling based German-style white wine blends were often referred to as “hock”. Following Repeal and into the late 1960s, Riesling was still the favorite of those who enjoyed slightly sweet wine. But the 1980s and 90s brought the California “dry white” revolution and by the end of the 20th century, Riesling vineyards were well below half of the 11,000 acres that once flourished in the state.

Riesling vines are a late budding, late ripening, hard wooded variety that is well suited to the coolest wine-growing climates. Moderately vigorous and productive, Riesling vines can yield between three and six tons per acre. Riesling grapes are small and round with tender green-yellow skin and a flecked appearance. The compact, winged clusters are subject to bunch rot and mold if exposed to late season rain or humidity.

The beauty of Riesling may well lay its unique ability to express the importance of complementary acid and sugar balance. The finest Rieslings are exceptionally graceful examples of balance, which allow them to become more supple and luxurious with age. Very generally, Rieslings come in three styles; dry, off dry, and sweet. Dry Rieslings (“troken” in German) usually have a trace of residual sugar – about one-half to one percent – to balance the brisk acidity and maintain fragrance on the nose. Even though there is no standard by which “off-dry” is defined, most semidry (off dry) Rieslings have residual sugar between one and three percent with a firm acidic backbone to maintain balance and structure. Late harvest Rieslings intended for sweet dessert wines can have residual sugar levels of seven percent or more.

Regional Riesling Producers

Boeger 2006 White Riesling (El Dorado County) Characterized by aromas of baked peach, apricot and apple, this semi-sweet wine is delicate yet crisp. Wonderful as an aperitif or with a spicy meal.

Charles B. Mitchell Vineyards 2006 El Dorado Riesling An aristocratic wine suggesting ginger and flowers on the nose with a finish reminiscent of quince, honey, and mango.

Ironstone Vineyards 2005 Riesling (Calaveras County) Dry and crisp in the German style with delicate apple and pear aromas with hints of rose petal and violets. Harmonious and well balanced with a long finish and robust acidity. Pairs great with light foods.

Madrona Vineyards 2005 Reserve Dry Riesling (El Dorado County) With a virtual cornucopia of spice and fruit on the nose, this traditional dry style Riesling features orange apricot tea married with fresh peach nectar and a dash of cinnamon. Bright, playful and incredibly balanced.

Wente 2006 Riverbank Riesling (Livermore) The fruit for this semi-sweet blend of 76% White Riesling and 24% Gewurztraminer comes from Wente’s Monterey County Arroyo Seco vineyards where the cool climate and deep soil produces exceptional grapes. Full of honeysuckle and floral lychee aromas with crisp acidity and fresh varietal flavors.

Wynelands Estate White Riesling (Lodi) Grapes from Monterey County produce an off-dry Riesling with crisp, effervescent acidity and flavors of orange blossom and apricot.