The name Old Arch Brewing Company (OABC) tends to suggest that the diner will find a brewpub with chicken and ribs. While they do brew beer on the premises this establishment offers a unique upscale dining experience in the rapidly developing tourist destination of downtown Lodi.

Project Manager/Designer Jacqui Bazzaroni skillfully crafted the interior design of the restaurant with a Frank Lloyd Wright inspired architecture. One might expect to see this in a hip venue in Manhattan. It is a casual dressy atmosphere with colors of a Mediterranean Sunset. One thing we really liked were the whimsical caricature paintings that Jacqui had specially commissioned by Chicago Artist Tom Fedro.

Those who arrive at OABC with a thirst are well accommodated. There is a full liquor bar, martinis, and wide choice of wines from the surrounding regions and around the world, and of course beer. In addition to popular commercial favorites there are three varieties brewed on site: Amber Wheat, American Lager and Bock. Happy Hour with Bar Menu starts at 4:00. Outdoor seating is available when weather permits.

After being greeted by General Manager Brody Choy, and seated by our server Heather, we began with some meal starters. Heather recommended that we try Chef Richard’s Famous Caramelized Onion and Goat Cheese Tart. We weren’t quite sure what to expect but the first bite told us we had been steered right. It has a flavor that just blossoms on the palate. Our entire party really enjoyed it. We sampled two excellent soups: Cream of Mushroom Soup that we found flavorful with its shitake mushrooms and Potato Cheddar Soup with a house-brewed Bock Beer base that had a hearty flavor with a lot of gusto. Mixed green salad included Goat Cheese, toasted pine nuts, and aged balsamic vinaigrette. Caesar Salad featured hearts of Romaine, Polenta Croutons and shaved Grana Padono (Italian cheese) topped with a wonderful Caesar dressing that had a great but not too strong flavor. To compliment our meal we enjoyed a bottle of E2 Verdelho 2004. The taste was fruity but it glides into a dry buttery finish that we found delightful.

OABC features contemporary American Cuisine utilizing locally grown produce where possible. Executive Chef Richard Hyman hand cuts the meat, poultry and fish. The result is a fresh tasting handcrafted culinary work of art. Menus change regularly as seasonal items become available. The menus have changed since our visit. Dinners range from $19 to $26.

Eye-catching Roasted Quail with Rose Petal sauce is a rare delicacy. Wild Rice and sautéed vegetables complimented this top-notch offering. Pan Seared Hazelnut-Crusted Sea Bass has an interesting balance of flavors with a South East Asian influence. This is another excellent choice with its light crust and just enough ginger to add a bit of zest at the end of each bite.

Braised Kobe Beef Short Ribs “Osso Bucco” was also an exceptional choice. We had this dish on a recent cruise; Chef Richard put that one to shame. This melt in your mouth short ribs is served with horseradish-mashed potatoes, mushroom ragout and roasted Cippolline onions. Another popular entrée at OABC is Grilled Kurobuta Pork Loin Medallions, which has almost a sweet and sour flavor. It is served with herbed fingerling potatoes and sautéed seasoned vegetables to create a flavor combination that is just dynamite.

General Manager Brody Choy brings to OABC 25 years of restaurant experience from venues such as Carmel and San Francisco. He is a wine expert and is responsible for developing the wine selections. We notice that his staff is schooled in small detail that set great service apart from the ordinary such as changing out silverware with course changes and “just in time” arrival for the next course. Other small touches include fresh flowers on the tables (for special events and holidays), music in the background and even hooks to hang women’s purses at the bar. Brody prefers an independent ownership restaurant in a smaller community environment to the big city chain setting because it allows much more freedom and creativity. Project Manager Jacqui and Chef Richard agree. They all enjoy working with their staff, which included Sous Chef Jarid Comstock, Pastry Chef Jeffrey Lovotti, Floor Manager Koreena Schultz and the various bartender and servers. Everyone we spoke to seemed genuinely glad to be there and believed that quality and service is the job of everyone in the restaurant. Their variety of experiences creates a synergy that leads to an outstanding dining experience.

Dessert ($8) is not an afterthought at OABC. Fuji and Pink Lady Apple Tart flavored with cinnamon and nutmeg with Madagascar vanilla bean crème anglaise was wonderful. Warm Caramelized Banana and Walnut Turnover with crème anglaise and caramel sauce was another big hit.

Chocolate! (We ordered two). Calebaut chocolate ice cream sandwich with Italian chocolate gelato and chocolate-cinnamon ganache was a chocolate lover’s delight. Chocolate Melting Cake with vanilla anglaise and raspberry coulis served with a rich chocolate topping was another great choice.

They also have Blood Orange Crème Brulee made with local Blood oranges, a selection of domestic and imported cheese and a variety of after dinner wines including the 2004 Grand Amis Port Syrah we enjoyed.

Old Arch Brewery Company seems to have developed a winning formula for Lodi and the wine country. Fine food, warm hospitality, pleasant atmosphere, spirits, wine and house-brewed beer are all available under one roof.

OABC is located inside the old Woolworth building at 115 S. School St. in downtown Lodi. They are open for Lunch from 11:30 to 2:30 Monday to Saturday and Dinner 5:30-9:00 Monday to Thursday, 5:30-10:00 Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday. Reservations can be made by calling (209) 367-5799. Visit them on the web at www.ArchBrew.com.