As with many of the words in our often-confusing English language, the term “vintage” has multiple meanings. As a noun, the Oxford University Press Dictionary defines vintage as 1 “the year or place in which wine was produced”, and 2 “a wine of high quality made from the crop of a single identified district”. As an adjective, Oxford defines vintage as “referring to something of the past of high quality.”

The term “vintage” applies to everything about Cooper Vineyards from the beautiful Italian-style winery and tasting room, to the exquisitely crafted wines, and to owner Dick Cooper himself.

For over 30 years, Cooper has been growing some of Amador County’s most sought-after vintage Barbera and Zinfandel wine grapes. Over the past several years, Dick has been expanding his portfolio of grape varieties in his 70-acre vineyard. “We currently grow fourteen varieties of grapes”, says daughter Chrissy Cooper. “Some of these varieties are planted in large acre lots while others are planted by the row.”

In 2004, Dick opened the Cooper Vineyards winery and tasting room under the direction of daughters Chrissy Cooper and Jeri Swift. “We make 17 varieties of wine and we release about eight at a time in the tasting room. That way, there is always something new to try on the tasting bar,” Chrissy explained.

Currently, Cooper grows fourteen varieties including Roussanne, Viognier, Marsanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Barbera, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, and three vintage varieties: Alicante Bouchet, Carignane, and Mourvedre. Alicante Bouschet, released in February will be joined by Carignane and Mourvedre at a later date in 2007.

The adjective definition of vintage aptly applies to all three of Cooper’s new varietal wines. Alicante Bouchet is a French hybrid grape that was introduced to California in the 1880s by Charles McIver of Mission San Jose. It was a favorite grape of eastern home winemakers during Prohibition because it’s thick, dark skin held up well during shipping and provided deep, dark colored wines. When crushed, Alicante produces a deep red juice, unlike the majority of red wine varieties that get its color from fermenting on the skins. Cooper’s Alicante Bouchet is a rich, full-bodied wine with aggressive tannins and spicy finish.

Carignane was California’s favorite blending grape prior to Prohibition. California “Burgundy” and “Claret” of the 1880s to 1910 was primarily Carignane blended with other Central Valley grapes. Carignane is making a bit of a comeback as a varietal and Cooper vintage Carignane is a prime example of this dense purplish-red wine featuring deep cherry and plum like fruit with peppery spiciness and a smooth texture.

Mourvedre is one of the most versatile workhorse red wine grapes in the new and old worlds. The Rhone variety came to California in the mid 1860s as Mataro (from the name of a town near Barcelona where the grape was grown) as part of San Jose nurseryman Louis Pellier’s collection and was more popular than the Zinfandel as a blending grape in the late 19th century. Cooper’s 2005 Mourvedre is dense and opaque, boasting flavors of peppers, cloves, and spices. Firm tannins and a mild tart finish make an exciting introduction to this vintage varietal.

At Cooper Vineyards, vintage not only refers to the wine but to the memorabilia in and around the tasting room. For starters, there is the 1930s Chevrolet parked in front of the winery. On loan from family friend Thom Reed, the old truck reminds Dick of his dad’s 1929 Model A pickup used to haul grapes to home winemaking Italian families on P and Q Streets in Sacramento.

The vintage road roller set in front of the property’s Pomegranate trees was instrumental in making Highway 88 an all weather route through the Sierra Foothills in the 1960’s. Dick was fascinated by the huge cast steel wheels and recently acquired the vintage road equipment from Wolin and Sons Construction.

Dick’s most memorable vintage piece is a 1938 Indian Motorcycle that is perched securely on the tasting room mezzanine. A gift from Cooper’s longtime friend and late fellow grower Jim Fox, the vintage bike is a continuous reminder of good friends, good neighbors, and good wine.

Whether you define “vintage” as a noun or an adjective, there is nothing confusing about the fact that vintage means something very special at Cooper Vineyards.