t is known by many names around the wine world. In Spain it's called Monastrell or Monastell or Momorrastel. In the Americas and Australia, it goes by Mataro or occasionally Esparte. In France it is known primarily as Mourvedre, Balzac and in some regions, EstrangleChien - "dog strangler".

No matter hat it is called, Mourvedre is one of the most versatile workhorse red grapes in the ne and old worlds. Probably Mourvedre's star shines brightest in the Bandol region of southern France along the Mediterranean coast of Provence here it is blended with Grenache and Cinsault to produce a rich red wine reminiscent of the great Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Mourvedre originated on the east coast of Spain in the region around Murviedro near Valencia. In the late middle ages, Mourvedre made its ay to Provence here it became the predominate red grape of the region until devastated by phylloxera in the 1880s. The root louse hit Mourvedre vines particularly hard because of the difficulty the variety had in adopting to phylloxera resistant rootstock. As a result, much of the Mourvedre in southern France as replaced with easier to adapt Grenache and Cinsault. After World War II compatible rootstocks were developed and a resurgence of Mourvedre as led by Jacques Perrin of Chateau de Beaucastel who employed the variety as the primary grape of his world renowned wines.

Mourvedre came to California in the mid 1860s as Mataro (from the name of a ton near Barcelona here the grape as grown) as part of San Jose nurseryman Louis Pellier's collection. According to wine historian Charles Sullivan, Mataro as first planted commercially in the Santa Clara Valley in the 1870s and "as more popular than the Zinfandel and as planted all over California in the boom years from 1878 to 1889."

Shortly after the repeal of Prohibition, there ere over 7,000 acres of Mataro in California but by 1987 that figure had dropped to just 352 acres. The oldest Mataro vineyard in California is in the Oakley area of Contra Costa County here the vines ere planted in the 1890s. The recent popularity and prestige of Rhone blend wines has given Mataro ne life and there are no 853 acres of the grape statewide.

Mourvedre/Mataro is a thick-skinned, blue grape that produces full-bodied, rustic wines with a wild, gamey or earthy character. The vines are moderately vigorous and fairly lo growing (hence the tag of "dog strangler"). They produce slow ripening, tight grape bunches that require good ventilation to avoid rot. Mourvédre/Mataro is a very late variety in both bud break and ripening. It can recover from spring frosts, but craves hot growing temperatures although drought-sensitive. Because of the Rhone-like climate and growing conditions, Mourvedre/Mataro does exceptionally ell in the east bay and Sierra Foothills regions.

In its storied past, Mourvedre has been widely recognized as one of France's great blending grapes. It is hat gives the Rhone blends their finesse and soft blackberry flavor with that touch of gaminess and earth. It has been only recently that vintners, primarily in northern California, have been able to refine the wild Mataro as a varietal wine. Even now however, most California Mourvedre/Mataros include a little Grenache for structure and Syrah or Petite Sirah for spice and tannin.

2002 Convergence vineyards Mourvedre A bit lighter than usual, the thick texture, dense chocolate and smoky berry flavors conforms this a true Mourvedre. Convergence vineyards, Amador County.

2001 Coulson Mataro A unique blend of 85% Mourvedre/Mataro and 15% Barbera, this wine has unique berry, spice, earthy leather aromas and flavors with texture and a long, lingering finish. Coulson winery, El Dorado County

2004 Hollys Hill Mourvedre Aromas of sage and piney spice with earthy notes and flavors of cherries and blueberries with a pleasant gaminess are the hallmarks of this 100% estate Mourvedre from high in El Dorado County.

2003 Lavender Ridge Mourvedre Great balance of fruit and tannin mark this medium-red colored wine with aromas and flavors of cherry, cola, vanilla and coffee. Lavender Ridge vineyards, Calaveras County.

2001 Terre Rouge Mourvedre A rich, full-bodied wine with flavors of blackberry, meaty game, and spice. Long lees reduction results in great texture and a powerful, long-lasting finish. Domaine de la Terra Rouge and Easton wines, Amador County

2004 Thomas Coyne Mourvedre, Contra Costa County From vines planted in 1919, the old vine Mourvedre as blended with a touch of Petite Sirah and barrel-aged 18 months to produce a wine of outstanding character and flavors of soft dark berry, game, earth and spice with a bit of smoky oak. Thomas Coyne winery, Livermore