It is the type of place to go for that special occasion or just an evening of superb dining. Having been there before, we anticipated an exceptional occasion and by evenings end agreed that our expectations had been fulfilled.

Those who prefer to unwind before dinner will find that Ernie’s features an intimate full bar to relax and partake of libations served by Bartender A.J. We began our evening with two delicious sounding appetizers: Grilled Tahini Prawns ($11) and Polenta Castello ($8). The savory marinated white prawns are served with cilantro, garlic, ginger, and a ground sesame seed sauce. The polenta is griddled and topped with a dab of bleu cheese and flavored with a delectable Marsala-mushroom sauce that is gourmet with a capital G. We highly recommend this appetizer.

Owner and Executive Chef of Ernie’s on the Brick Walk is Warren K. Ito. Warren trained at the California Culinary Academy. He is a master at preparing rich rewarding foods and pairing fine wine to compliment his creations. So who is Ernie? Ernie Ito is Warren’s dad and biggest supporter.

In 1990, two years out of culinary school, Ernie talked a still quite young Warren into opening a small restaurant in a building that came available at an attractive price. He opened Ernie’s Pasta Barn. It was sink or swim! With much hard work and the never-ending support of his parents Warren survived and later opened Ernie’s on the Brick Walk in 1994. Ernie still comes in and greets guests at lunch on a regular basis.

A specialty of the house is Manila Clam Chowder ($9), which is a large bowl of New England-style chowder with fresh clams still in the shell, a creamy base, pancetta, and slices of gold potatoes. A bowl of this will satisfy those with a robust appetite. Another selection was Tomato Bisque ($4/$7), which has a creamy delicate tomato taste that we found delightful.

It wouldn’t be fine dining without some fruit of the vine! Ernie’s has a wine list with over 180 selections all personally selected by Warren himself. Our group decided on glasses of Domaine Chandon Chardonnay 2004, BV Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, and Spenker Vineyards, Lodi Zinfandel 2000. All were good but the Spenker Zin was the taste winner of the night.

Ernie’s has a selection of about 10 entrées on the menu priced from $15 to $32 including pasta, chicken, veal, seafood, lamb and beef. We auditioned four main courses. The Daily Special, Pan-Fried Petrale Sole Filet ($24) with white wine, capers, and lemon and butter sauce will gratify the palate of the seafood aficionado. Its generous portions include basmati rice, and the vegetables du jour green beans, yellow and zucchini squash.

Grilled Rib Eye ($27) is prepared with Madeira wine and herbs and smothered with loads of mushrooms and apple wood-smoked bacon. This is an awesome choice for the beef lover. Australian Lamb Chops ($23/$28) are prepared with Kalamata Olive- Rosemary sauce, which gives it a unique flavor. We took a walk on the wild side and ordered Colorado Bison Strip Loin Steak ($32) with mushrooms and a truffle-port sauce. This naturally lean bison was greatly enhanced by this delicious sauce. Red meat entrées

all include garlic-mashed potatoes and fresh vegetables. We were pleased to see generous portions and the inclu- sion of quality vegetables with our meal. The variety makes for a colorful presentation. A new item to the menu is Comfit Leg of Duck served with Eggplant Chestnut Bread Pudding, large mushrooms and peas. It truly is a meal fit for a king!

We thoroughly enjoyed the simple elegance of the dining room. It has a rich brownstone motif with cocoa walls, subdued alabaster lighting and a quality Berber carpet. It is a marvel- ous theme for fine dining and special occasions. Seating outdoor on the Brick Walk is also available as weath- er permits.

At the bottom of the menu is the admonition “Ernie’s reminds you to please eat responsibly”. We looked at each other and said, “Why start now? It’s time for dessert!” We enjoyed Espresso with our dessert as a finale to what was a distinguished culi-

nary occasion. The Triple-Layered Chocolate Brownie Terrine with Belgian chocolate ganache, crème anglaise and vanilla ice cream was just like eating fudge candy. Chocolate Hazelnut Tart with praline cookie crust and caramel sauce was the favorite for our group! We also ordered the daily special, Key Lime Pie. It was good but only recom- mended for those who like theirs tart.

When it all comes together—the quality of the food, the care in preparation, the service and the feeling that you have just experienced something very special—there is nothing quite like Ernie’s on the Brick Walk.

Ernie’s on the Brick Walk is located in Stockton at 296 Lincoln Center (Pacific Ave. and Ben Holt Dr.). Lunch is served Monday to Friday 11:30 A.M. to 2 P.M. Dinner hours are 5:00 P.M. to close Monday thru Saturday. (Closed Sunday) Reservations are recommended and can be made at (209) 951-3311.