While the red grape varietal Zinfandel was for many years thought of as a mystery grape because of unanswered questions about its origin, it has also proven a worthy adversary to the boldest, most well-known red, Cabernet Sauvignon, as America’s heritage red and a truly Californian species.

Zinfandel, or “Zin,” is a medium-sized, round, almost black, thin-skinned grape that grows in tightly-packed clusters. Its vines are easily spotted in a vineyard because it is often “head-trained:” the vine stands upright without the aid of a trellis. While it can grow in cool to very hot environments and on any soil bed imaginable, the Sierra Foothills, Lodi, Sonoma and Paso Robles regions have proven a perfect environment for growing some of the best Zinfandels in the world.

Zinfandel’s rich, spicy characteristics have attracted many wine connoisseurs and everyday wine drinkers. Zinfandel is the second most widely planted grape in California behind Cabernet Sauvignon; and California is the largest Zinfandel producer in the world. In addition, there is no true Zinfandel wine produced in Europe, make it a truly “American” grape.

Zinfandel even has its own preservation association, the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers, or ZAP, which holds an annual festival in honor of the grape in January each year in San Francisco (January 21 to 24 in 2004).

Zinfandel’s origins are no longer mysterious. In December 1991, University of California, Davis, researcher Carole Meredith determined by genetic testing that Zinfandel was one and the same as the Croatian grape Crljenak. It was brought to the eastern United States around 1820, and found its way to Amador County by 1865. Amador County is home to the oldest continuously producing Zinfandel vineyards in the state. In Amador, there are more than 600 acres of Zinfandel vines over 60 years old; a few, such as D’Agostini, Fox Creek, Deaver, Eschen, Grandpère, and Sadie Upton, are 80 to 125 years of age.

Zinfandel also has important roots in Lodi, where there are several century-old vineyards. More than 75,000 acres of grapes are grown in Lodi, and Lodi produces more Zinfandel than any other wine district in California.

The Zinfandel grape produces a rich, hearty, dry and spicy wine with hints of black cherries, blackberries, boysenberries, plums and freshly ground pepper. While Amador Zins are often briary and peppery with alcohol levels often in excess of 15 percent, Lodi Zins are fruit forward with soft, lush tannins. Both regions produce delicious Zinfandels with price tags under $25.

Zinfandel has such profound color it will stain your teeth purple. Zinfandel wine is not to be confused with White Zinfandel, a sweeter, often mass-produced counterpart popularized in the 1980s by removing the grapes’ skins before they turned the wine deep red.

Most Zinfandels can be served with pastas, steaks and hamburgers, while others are bold enough to serve with game meats and poultry. Serve Zinfandel in a narrow-mouthed glass at about 65 degrees.

2001 Jeff Runquist “Z” Zinfandel, Massoni Ranch, Amador County. $22

2001 Karly Warrior Fires Zinfandel,
Amador County. $24

2001 Jessie’s Grove Old Vine Zinfandel, Vintner’s Choice, Estate. $15.

2001 Sobon Estates Rocky Top Zinfandel, Shenandoah Valley. $15