Sauvignon Blanc is a small, white wine grape historically recognized as originating in the Bordeaux region and the Loire Valley of France. Sauvignon Blanc is believed to have been brought to California from France in the mid-1850’s. Its name is derived from the French word sauvage, meaning wild, and it is usually just that: a wild, herbaceous, grassy wine with immeasurable amounts of acidity and none of the elegance of Chardonnay.

In the late 1960s, Robert Mondavi realized that wines from the Loire Valley in France were selling better with names like Pouilly-Fume, so he decided to call his Sauvignon Blanc Fumé Blanc. This change in name caused a tremendous upturn in the Sauvignon Blanc market. Sales of Fumé Blanc still surpass sales of wines labeled Sauvignon Blanc every year. It is now the second best selling varietal in California behind Chardonnay. Mondavi did not copyright the name, so anyone can use it.

The Sauvignon Blanc grape is also known as Blanc Fumé, Sauvignon Jaune, and Sauvignon Musqu. Today, it is commonly grown in France, California, Italy, Eastern Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and South America. In California and other warm regions, the dominant flavor in Sauvignon Blanc is grapefruit, as well as citrus, tropical fruits and grass. Karly’s Sauvignon Blanc and Amador Foothill’s Fumé Blanc are a good example of this. In cool regions such as New Zealand and France’s Loire Valley, it generally tastes more grassy, lean, and fresh.

Some winemakers add Semillon to the wine, giving it structure and elegance and allowing it a longer aging period, such as Easton’s Natoma, while others ferment the wine in stainless steel, letting its natural, crisp flavors come out. Still others use sur lie aging or malolactic fermentation, creating greater variety in the resulting wines. At least 75 percent of the wine must be from Sauvignon Blanc grapes in order for the wine to be labeled Sauvignon Blanc.

The wine’s end product flavors can conjure descriptions such as mowed grass, oakey toast, vanilla, acacia, gardenia, citrus, lemon, grapefruit, malolactic butter, herbs, melon, pineapple, pear, and passion fruit. When blended with Semillon, Sauvignon Blancs often taste figgy.

Sauvignon Blanc is well liked all over the world for its versatility and renowned reputation for pairing with many foods. It matches simply with seafoods including pan-fried sand dabs, oysters, and cioppino. It brings out the spices in dishes prepared with herbs including thyme, rosemary, and tarragon. Tropical fruit Fumé Blancs match up nicely with spicy Vietnamese foods, sushi, and Indian dishes. And rich goat cheeses and olive oils bring out the grass in the wines.
Sauvignon Blanc does not age well, and grapes on the vine can have a tendency to acquire powdery mildew and black rot. But it is cheaper to make than Chardonnay and grows easily in a variety of locations. It also generally sells for less. It is definitely one of the most underappreciated California wines.

End-of-summer Sauvignon Blanc selections:

2001 Amador Foothill Fumé Blanc, Shenandoah Valley, $10. Intense floral, tropical, and spicy aromas lead to balanced flavors of citrus, melon, and pineapples with rich texture and a lingering finish.

2002 Chatom Sauvignon Blanc, Calaveras County, $14. One hundred percent Sauvignon Blanc in this wine creates an end-result of cantaloupe, mangoes and vanilla.

2001 Easton Natoma, Sierra Foothills, $16. Blended with Semillon, this dense and creamy rendition is fresh and different with flavors of lemon and grapefruit.

2002 Karly Sauvignon Blanc, Amador County, $11. A classic combination of grapefruit and grass with a minerally finish. Great with seafood!