Primitivo may not be the first varietal you see on your favorite wine store shelf. Nor is it likely to be on your favorite restaurant’s wine list. But even if you have never enjoyed this common Italian table grape made popular as a component of Chianti, you’ve probably enjoyed a sip or two of its twin Zinfandel. Yes, California’s beloved Zin is actually the genetic twin of Primitivo, both recently traced using DNA profiling to be clones of the Croatian varietal Crljenak. In fact, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) has considered ruling Zinfandel & Primitivo synonymous for use on wine labels, much to the detriment of California Zin producers who will no doubt be threatened by a flood of abundant Italian Primitivo wine labeled Zinfandel.

Whatever the name, the versatility of this ancient varietal is well established, from bright, fruity Beaujolais style younger reds, complex and Cabernet-like age worthy sippers, to high alcohol style Port-like dessert wines.

Outdoor cooking goes very well with the lighter styles of Primitivo & Zin. Grilled chops or steaks, smoked ribs or chicken, even stews and pasta will pair well with these twins. Try a fruit and sausage stuffing for your favorite game bird or pork loin next time you grill, paired with an unpretentious Primitivo or Zin. In a word: Quaffable.

4 semi boneless quail brined for 8 hrs
1/2 pound mild pork sausage
1/2 cup chopped fennel stalk
1/2 cup dried cranberry
1 cup light red or white wine
1 T butter
1/4 cup shallots minced
1 cup cubed sourdough bread salt and pepper to taste
Brine
4 cups cold water
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup salt

Procedure: Make brine by dissolving sugar & salt in water. Cover birds with brine and let marinate for 8 hours. Make stuffing by sautéing shallots in butter over medium heat until soft, add fennel, wine and cranberries and simmer until liquid is reduced by 50%. Add bread and seasonings and set aside. Remove quail from brine and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper and stuff mixture into cavities. Smoke lightly over medium heat for about 45 minutes or until internal temperature of stuffing reaches about 150ºF. Do not overcook! Serve with cous cous, veggies and a wine reduction sauce. Happy Spring!