Sangiovese, or “the blood of Jove,” is a red grape varietal most notably recognized as the principal grape in Tuscan Chianti. It is also the only variety in Brunello di Montalcino and is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to create many of the super-Tuscan blends. It is the most important and most widely planted grape in central Italy.

There are over 200 clones of Sangiovese and two widely known sub-types: Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo.

The origins of this ancient grape are relatively unclear, but Soderini of Florence mentions the varietal growing in Italy in his book “Coltivazione Della Vite,” which was published in 1590. Some evidence shows the varietal in California by the early 1860s. Seghesio Winery in Sonoma County had Sangiovese growing by 1910.

While California is relatively new to growing Sangiovese, it has been becoming increasingly more popular since the 1980s. It is widely planted in the Napa Valley, Sonoma County, the Central Coast, and the Sierra Foothills.

Like the Tuscany region in central Italy, the Sierra Foothills are extremely suitable to the growth of Sangiovese grapes due to the moderate-to-poor soil quality, similar climates and common elevations.

Sangiovese is very difficult to grow and complicated to make. Vines are very strong with small to medium-sized clusters of oval, purple-red berries.

Sangiovese wines can be created as a blend with Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera, Merlot or Zinfandel, or stand alone.
In the Sierra Foothills, winemakers are blending the Sangiovese grapes with Barbera (Deaver Vineyards, Shenandoah Vineyards) and Merlot (Chatom Vineyards). Several wineries, including Domaine Becquet, Amador Foothill Winery and Vino Noceto, are making 100 percent Sangiovese wines that can stand alone.

Most are made in the traditional Italian style, but one Calaveras County vintner, Jean-Jacques Charles Vitrac of Domaine Becquet, is successful in making a tasty, French-style Sangiovese.

While the varietal is extremely intimidated by the vineyard in which it is grown, it is most commonly described as having the flavors of cherries, raspberries and strawberry fruits, as well as anise, violets, cedar and clove spice. It is typically highly acidic with refined, not bitter tannins. It is also very jammy, with a creamy-smooth texture.

Several vintners have created light rosé styles, but most winemakers are currently making a rich style that can be drunk without foods but is also great when paired with spicy pastas, pizzas and other everyday dishes.

While the lighter Sangioveses last up to three years, the richer, more robust ones can wait about five years before reaching perfection.

Jane Suzanne King is a freelance wine writer and the wine consultant at California Wine Sellers, Fine Wines of Jackson.